After
Copan I went to El Salvador (still with Natasha and Darren). Part of the reason
I wanted to go was because I had heard generally defamatory reports about the
country, but mostly from people who had never visited it and I wanted to see if
they were justified. After an easy border crossing we tried to go to a small
town called Metapan in order to get to Montecristo National Park. After a while
it was established that there were no more buses at that time so I negotiated
with Luis a taxi driver to take us there. Luis was a very jovial guy who spent
much of the time laughing. Within the first few minutes he had got a bit lost
and almost destroyed his already damaged car when he went on the wrong route
which was barely fit as a goat path. After ripping off his exhaust and sticking
it on the roof rack as a memento we found the right road and headed off through
lovely scenery to Metapan. I asked Luis if he saw many tourists coming through
the border, he replied that it was very rare that he saw any. I asked him why he
thought very few visitors came to his country, he didn’t have an answer. I
then asked him if it was true that at night there were very many criminals
around in the cities, which he confirmed. I also asked if there were bandits on
the roads which he also confirmed. I suggested this might be why not too many
people visit El Salvador which he thought was quite a reasonable explanation. We
arrived in Metapan just as it was getting dark and had a wander round town and
got something to eat. Next day we tried to make arrangements to get to the park
but it became clear that transport to get there would be prohibitively expensive
so we gave up on that plan and headed to Santa Ana, El Salvador’s second city.
We went to see Joya de Ceren an interesting Mayan site where the village was
buried by volcanic ash and so excellently preserved. Utensils, living
structures, pots, statues and numerous other artefacts were discovered in
generally very good condition. What is more is the actual homes the people lived
in have been excavated so there building techniques and the way they lived one
and a half thousand years ago is visible. From there went to San Andres where
there is another interesting Mayan site, with several pyramids and another
interesting museum, the last Mayan site we visited in El Salvador was Tazumal
another ziggurat also with an interesting museum with some excellent artefacts
discovered in the vicinity. So after just a few days we left El Salvador for
Guatemala. The people in El Salvador were extremely hospitable, good humoured
and helpful, the sites were interesting and the prices fair.
I
am now in Guatemala but I will write about my adventures here in another
newsletter.