The first time I went to Argentina, I crossed at the Iguacu falls, when I was back in Argentina a couple of years later, I went to see them again, they are truly spectacular and also now I know about the secret place (photos 5-7) where you get to have your own private part of the falls to yourself to swim and frolic in. Don't ask how to get there I'm not telling, it's a secret and also it's very naughty. Because of the vapour, there are often lots of rainbows, which I like. One can also see coati, a carnivorous South American raccoon (photo 10), from time to time. To see more pictures from the Brazilian side of the falls, click on the little flag

Iguacu.jpg (68146 bytes)  Iguacu1.jpg (179907 bytes)  Iguacu-trees.jpg (206159 bytes)  Iguacu-palms.jpg (225624 bytes)  secret-arch.jpg (173274 bytes)  Iguacu-secret.jpg (161405 bytes)  Iguacu-shower.jpg (220294 bytes)  Boca-rainbow.jpg (56486 bytes)  Esther-and-I.jpg (73221 bytes)  Coati-on-tree.jpg (392635 bytes)  

 

When I was first in Argentina it was in a major economic recession with many people losing their jobs and having their money devalued on an ongoing basis. As a result there were daily protests in Buenos Aires for one thing or another this one was about restricted access to peoples funds. A couple of years later, things hadn't improved a great deal.

Buenos Aires Protestors.jpg (92008 bytes) 

 

In Buenos Aires I went to the cemetery in La Recoleta, where the tombs are all very grand and ornate. The most famous internee is Eva Duarte-Peron, more famously known as Evita, interred in the Duarte family tomb (photo 1). On the facade there are several brass plaques remembering 'Santa Evita' which some people would rub in order to receive a blessing. Whilst I was there an elderly lady came along and started playing music on her harmonica including 'Don't cry for me Argentina'. It was interesting and amusing to see the depth of feeling that some people still had for this woman. There is also a tomb for soldiers who died in the War of the Triple Alliance against Paraguay (photo 2) amongst the fancy final resting places. In La Recoleta I decided to take a picture illustrating how the economic strife and ensuing budget cutbacks have reduced the size of the Buenos Aires police force. 

Evita's tomb.jpg (72952 bytes)  Recoleta-Paraguayos.jpg (135494 bytes)  Recoleta-tomb-2.jpg (141388 bytes)  minicopcar.jpg (91135 bytes)

 

In the port area of La Boca there are many art galleries and colourful buildings. The reason for the houses being so colourful is that most of the local residents who worked in the port would use left over bits of boat paint to paint their homes, often resulting in a bright patchwork of colours as shown below. Now though it has become very touristic. Some of the buildings have caricature mannequins of famous Argentines on their balconies (photos 3 & 4).

La Boca House.jpg (89776 bytes)  la-boca-home.jpg (272336 bytes)  models1.jpg (212155 bytes)  models.jpg (187938 bytes)  la-boca-nice-facade.jpg (304059 bytes)  La-Boca.jpg (258518 bytes)

 

All over Argentina one can see reminders of the feeling stirred up by subsequent governments for many years over the Falkland Islands or Las Malvinas as they are know to the Argentines. In Buenos Aires there is a large memorial to the fallen of Las Malvinas with a permanent honour guard (photo 1), commemorating those who lost their lives when the last military dictator decided to invade a couple of barren islands, inhabited only by a bunch of lonely British farmers and their sheep. The people got so pissed off when the invasion was reversed by British troops that the tower donated years ago by the British is now known as the ex-English Tower (photo 2), yet this is only in the Spanish language literature. In the English stuff it is still called the English Tower. The two faced blighters.

Malvinas-memorial.jpg (183120 bytes)  Ex-torre-ingles.jpg (102659 bytes)

 

In Peninsula Valdez I was fortunate enough to witness the Orcas (killer whales) riding up the surf in order to snatch seals and eat them. It is very impressive to see these massive majestic animals ploughing through the water and on to the beach in order to catch hold of the seals and take them into the sea to eat them. Watching several tonnes flapping about in order to get back into the water is enthralling. David Attenborough did an excellent programme about this phenomenon called "Orca Attacks".

Orcas.JPG (100104 bytes) Orcas 2.JPG (109924 bytes)  Orcas 3.JPG (103147 bytes) Orcas 4.JPG (110027 bytes) Orcas 5.JPG (97669 bytes) Orcas running on beach.JPG (34890 bytes)

 

Also in Peninsula Valdez I got to see other interesting wildlife, including sea lions and elephant seals (photos 1 - 3), armadillos (photo 4), foxes (photo 5), voles (photo 6), penguins and guanaco. Probably the most unexpected bit was the cows though, not that is is unexpected to see cows in Argentina, after all it is a major beef producer. It was that these cows were wandering along the beach next to a turquoise sea, not something one often sees.

 Elephant seal.JPG (125610 bytes) Seal shedding skin.JPG (116402 bytes) Seals subathing.JPG (113216 bytes) Armadillo.JPG (105314 bytes) Fox.JPG (78586 bytes) vole.JPG (93401 bytes) Cows on beach.JPG (85682 bytes)

 

Just a short way from Peninsula Valdez is Punta Tombo, where the worlds largest Magellan penguin colony resides. These penguins make nests up to three kilometres from the beach (see photo 4) and seem to spend a lot of their time stood in these burrows looking around like nosy neighbours.

 hungry.JPG (79575 bytes) Magellen Penguin.JPG (76575 bytes) Penguin chat.JPG (93465 bytes) Guanaco and Penguin.JPG (56396 bytes)

 

The southern most point of Argentina is on the island of Tierra del Fuego (land of fire). The beagle channel (named after Darwin's boat) separates Argentina from Chile at this point. Ushuaia is the world's most southerly city and as I came into land in Ushuaia one could see how it lies between the mountains and the channel (photos 1 & 2). Along the channel there are beautiful mountains (photos 3 - 6) and interesting bird-life including albatross (photo 7) .

Ushuaia from air.JPG (77359 bytes) Ushuaia from air 2.JPG (82688 bytes) Peak.JPG (67644 bytes) Wreck view.JPG (50527 bytes) Channel view 2.JPG (93693 bytes) view of the channel.JPG (83286 bytes) Albatross.JPG (64036 bytes) 

 

The cormorants nests on the islands look more like peculiar rock formations (photo 1). The area is also home to many seals and sea lions (photos 2-8), the way to tell the difference is that sea lions have external ears. As well as Magellan penguins (photos 9 & 11) were also Gentoo penguins with their distinctive eyebrows and orange beaks (photos 10 & 11). The last picture is from Ushuaia National Park.

Cormorant nests.JPG (84676 bytes) Scaling seal pup.JPG (76994 bytes) Seals admiring view.JPG (80401 bytes) Seal colony.JPG (94621 bytes)friendly seals.JPG (71344 bytes) seal island.JPG (68179 bytes) Seals swimming.JPG (99127 bytes) porpoising seal.JPG (61228 bytes) Seals and mountain.JPG (61866 bytes) Magellen penguins.JPG (91178 bytes) Gentoo Penguin 2.JPG (107960 bytes) Gentoo Penguin.JPG (85293 bytes) Old mans beard.JPG (95105 bytes) 

 

These pictures show the Perito Moreno Glacier. The first two show the view up the valley as this sixteen kilometre long glacier makes its way across Lago Argentino. The ice here is particularly blue due to either compaction or high nitrogen levels. the third picture shows carving where huge chunks from the snout of the glacier, in this case a piece sixty metres high (the height of the glacier) approximately thirty metres across and about five metres thick breaks off the end and hits the water with impressive force. This piece of ice weighed maybe as much as nine thousand tonnes, not something you want to be swimming near when it drops. The fourth picture also shows carving though not quite as dramatic, the amount of ice that has dropped can be seen most clearly when one notes the different positions of the eye shaped hole in the ice. The rest of the pictures show more views of the glacier. 

Perito fish eye.JPG (49238 bytes) Perito Moreno and valley.JPG (60927 bytes) Perito carving 1.JPG (110106 bytes) Perito carving.jpg (81475 bytes) perito close up.JPG (88181 bytes) perito snout.JPG (61114 bytes) Perito valley view.JPG (93096 bytes)

 

In the north of Argentina, near the border with Bolivia is the pleasant little town of Humahuaca, with an attractive adobe church (photos 1 & 2) and a memorial to the fallen or something like that (photo 3).

Humahuaca-church.jpg (175842 bytes)  Humahuaca-church-1.jpg (233895 bytes)  Humahuaca-steps.jpg (151574 bytes)

 

Near the small town of Tafi del Valle is a park where pre-Colombian monoliths from the surrounding area have been assembled together (photos 1-3). Apparently as a result they have lost almost all archaeological knowledge has been lost as no record of which monolith came from where. It does make it easier to see them all though. The countryside in the area is also very pleasant (photo 4), with funky bugs to be found in the greenery (photo 5).

monolith-park.jpg (213242 bytes)  monolith.jpg (219001 bytes)  monolithy.jpg (293423 bytes)  country.jpg (163990 bytes)  bug.jpg (183438 bytes)

 

The city of Salta has some attractive colourful churches.

Salta.jpg (176632 bytes)  Salta-church.jpg (147443 bytes)

 

The border between Argentina and Chile in the Andes near Mendoza and Santiago is spectacular. The mountains are dramatic and snow-capped. 

border.jpg (174756 bytes)  mountain.jpg (233019 bytes)  mountains.jpg (172984 bytes)

 

Back to My Travels and Photos

All the images and text on this website are the copyright sole property of Raphael Kessler and cannot be copied or reproduced without his express permission. If you want to use any of my intellectual material please first click here.