My first stop in Guatemala was Monterrico where I witnessed and even participated in a bizarre race with some particularly young competitors. The participants were recently hatched olive ridley turtles (photo 1). The race takes place weekly at the beach in front of the local wildlife reserve. The turtle race (photo 3) is a way of raising money and awareness for the wildlife reserve as people buy a hatchling for the competition with the prospect of winning a t-shirt.  In the second photo below one can see just how tiny these little things are as that is my hand holding it. Some of the turtles that have been tagged and released here have been seen in the Galapagos islands, a boody long swim from Guatemala. In the reserve there are also caymans (photo 4) and green iguanas to see (photo 5).

Monterrico - Just Hatched Turtle racing.JPG (87198 bytes)  Monterrico - Just Hatched Turtle.JPG (51101 bytes)  Monterrico - Turtle Race.JPG (117479 bytes)  Monterrico - Cayman.JPG (99651 bytes)  Monterrico - Green Iguanas.JPG (142281 bytes)

Near the friendly little town of Santa Lucia Cotzumalguapa are several pre-Mayan, Olmec influenced sites. The first I visited was Bilbao's petroglyphs which required local assistance to find as they were in a sugar cane plantation. The first petroglyph (photo 1) shows what archaeologists believe is a ball player (centre) making an offering to a royal personage (right) and receiving assistance from a sorcerer (left). The second petroglyph (photo 2) shows another three characters two of which are anamorphic figures (left and right) and and the other seems to represent death or famine (centre).

Bilbao Petroglyph.JPG (207605 bytes)  Bilbao Petroglyph 2.JPG (154266 bytes)  

Another site nearby was El Baule where a petroglyph was used as an altar (photo 1) and a large head was half buried next to it (photo 2).

El Baule Altar.JPG (179082 bytes)  El Baule Head.JPG (202257 bytes)  

At the Finca El Baule sugar cane refinery several artefacts that have been found around the finca have been relocated to an onsite museum. One of the petroglyphs features what looks a bit like a strange boxing spaceman that people can make up strange ideas about (photo 1). Another had a couple of guys with goatees (photo 2).

El Baule Pre-Mayan Space Man.JPG (183315 bytes)  El Baule Beardies.JPG (142725 bytes)

In La Democracia there are some big stone Olmec fat blokes that look like Weebles (photos 2 & 3). There were also interesting looking people around (photo 3).

La Democracia Olmec Head.JPG (151085 bytes)  La Democracia Olmec Weeble.JPG (190050 bytes)  La Democracia Woman.JPG (202171 bytes)

The attractive colonial city of Antigua is cobble-stoned and has some nice looking buildings such as La Merced (photo 1) and the clock tower (photo 2). As many tourists visit the city there are lots of Mayan women selling handicrafts (photo 3) and a Mayan kid getting beaten up by his big sister (photo 4).

Antigua - La Merced.JPG (146815 bytes)  Antigua Clock Tower.JPG (142909 bytes)  Antigua - Mayan Women.JPG (141007 bytes)  Antigua - Mayan kids fighting.JPG (128961 bytes)

Just nearby Antigua is the constantly active Volcan Pacaya, which I climbed on the premise that I would see some lava, which I was promised but wasn't visible. Following the group up the volcanoe were several dogs scrounging food and then resting on the hot vents near the top (photo below).

Volcan Pacaya.JPG (140943 bytes)

Chichistenango is a small town famous for its Sunday markets when the loyal Maya sell their handicrafts. As a result many interesting looking people gather in the town (photos 1 - 3). The crafts are quite varied and interesting (photos 4-7) and not too expensive. Just near the town is the sacrificial site of Pascual Abaj where offerings are made and incense is burned.

Chichistenango Folk.JPG (151106 bytes)  Chichistenango Steps.JPG (206626 bytes)  Chichi Florist.JPG (116379 bytes)  Chichi Mayan Textiles 2.JPG (120876 bytes)  Chichi Mayan Textiles.JPG (110604 bytes)  Chichestenango Stall.JPG (142604 bytes)  Chichi Stall.JPG (93462 bytes)  Chichi Pascual Abaj.JPG (169660 bytes)

Lake Atitlan (photo 1) was formed in the crater of a volcanoe that blew its top 85,000 years ago. The lake is surrounded by a number of villages, the people of which wear different traditional clothing (photo 2). In Santiago Atitlan is the idol Maximon a fun loving mayan god who likes smoking, drinking, fairy lights, cash and Christmas tunes (photo 3). On my way back from Santiago Atitlan on a boat across the lake I was chatting with Maxe (photo 4) from Solola who had gone to see Maximon to ask for protection for himself (which seems to work as he is 74) and for help for his brother who has been a bit limp recently, he wants something long and hard for his brother, so he can satisfy his women.

Atitlan.JPG (28458 bytes)  Atitlan San Pedro Bloke.JPG (190568 bytes)  Atitlan Maximon.JPG (159956 bytes)  Atitlan Maxe.JPG (80257 bytes)

In the town of Retalhuleu I saw a funeral lead by a rickshaw advertising a pharmacy (photo 1). I don't know if the pharmacist killed the deceased or thought it was a good bit of advertising to say get your drugs from me or this is what will happen to you. My reason for visitng though was to go to Abaj Tekalik where there is another interesting Mayan site (photos 2 & 3) and Finca San Isidro where several interesting pieces have been relocated to the front garden of the farm house (photo 4).

Retalhuleu Funeral.JPG (131301 bytes)  Abaj Tekalik.JPG (167133 bytes)  Abaj Tekalik 2.JPG (181196 bytes)  Finca San Isidro.JPG (198458 bytes)

In Momostenango the people were interesting looking (photos 1 - 3) and a centre for training for Mayan priests.

Momostonango.JPG (157779 bytes)  Momostonango 1.JPG (76593 bytes)  Momostonango Destitute.JPG (138603 bytes)

Todos Santos is in the Guatemalan highlands which meant it was bloody cold but the market day (photo 1) here meant that all the locals turned up in their traditional attire which is quite uniform (photos 2 - 5). The little kids insisted that I take their photo or give them money, I was happy to take their picture.

Todos Santos.JPG (174145 bytes)  Todos Santos 1.JPG (106884 bytes)  Todos Santos 2.JPG (130191 bytes)  Todos Santos 3.JPG (145325 bytes)  Todos Santos 4.JPG (119273 bytes)  Todos Santos Girls.JPG (112840 bytes)

I visited Livingston for Garifuna day. This is the anniversary of the arrival of the Garifuna African people in the area. When I was there it was the 200th anniversary of the arrival of the Garifuna on the Caribbean coast of Guatemala so there were spontaneous street parties (photos 1 & 2) and also partying in the bars (photos 3 & 4).

Livingston Impromptu Performance.JPG (125973 bytes)  Livingston Impromptu Performance 2.JPG (144801 bytes)  Ubafu in full swing.JPG (162952 bytes)  Ubafu band.JPG (146396 bytes)

Tikal is Guatemala's most famous Mayan site and has some impressive Mayan buildings that are particularly tall (photos 1 - 5). Hidden in the forest is the temple of the inscriptions (photo 6), so called because of the hieroglyphic inscriptions around its roof. Around the site are lots of coatamundi, which is a carniverous raccoon and colourful royal turkeys (photo 7). Whereas above our heads we were harassed by spider monkeys who threw fruit and twigs at us (photo 8). Tikal was used as a location in the original Star Wars film as the rebel base on Yavin Four (photo 5).

Tikal Temple 1 back.JPG (177323 bytes)  Tikal Temple 1 front.JPG (158583 bytes)  Tikal Temple 2.JPG (160371 bytes)  Tikal.JPG (194961 bytes)  Tikal view from temple 4.JPG (60267 bytes)  Tikal - Temple of the Inscriptions.JPG (224931 bytes)  Tikal Royal Turkey and Coatamundi.JPG (215492 bytes)  Tikal Spider Monkeys.JPG (197671 bytes)

 

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